Showing posts with label make. Show all posts
Showing posts with label make. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 18, 2015

Wooden Waste Paper Basket HOW TO MAKE IT

A MISSION WASTE-PAPER BASKET

Excerpt from the book:
Mission Furniture - HOW TO MAKE IT - PART I
POPULAR MECHANICS HANDBOOKS CHICAGO,
Printed 1909



Waste-Paper Basket to Match Library Table

The basket shown in the accompanying sketch is designed to be used with a library table having slats in the ends and wooden handles on the drawers. The finish is made to match that of the table by fuming, when completely assembled, in a large-size size, clean garbage can, with fumes of concentrated ammonia.


Detail of Waste-Paper Basket

The following quarter-sawed white-oak stock should be procured in the exact dimensions given. This may be had, planed and cut to lengths, from a mill for a slight extra charge. It is advisable not to have them sandpapered, as the very coarse sandpaper generally used, gives a bad surface for finishing.

    4 posts, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S.
    4 rails, 3/4 by 3 by 10-1/4 in., S-2-S.
    4 rails, 3/4 by 2 by 10-1/4 in., S-2-S.
    12 slats, 3/8 by 2-1/4 by 9-1/2 in., S-2-S.
    4 handle pieces, 1 by 1 by 2-1/2 in., S-4-S.
    2 handle pieces, 1/2 by 1/2 by 6 in., S-4-S.
    1 bottom, 3/8 by 9-1/2 by 9-1/2 in., S-2-S.

See that the posts are absolutely square cross section. Mark with a pencil—not gauge—the chamfers on the ends of the posts and plane them off.

Carefully mark the tenons on the ends of all the rails with a knife and gauge lines. Be sure that the distance from the tenon shoulder at one end of rail to the shoulder at the other end is exactly the same on each rail. Cut the tenons, using a backsaw and chisel.

Arrange the pieces as they are to stand in the finished basket, and number each tenon and mortise. Mark all the mortises on the posts, being sure to keep the distances between the top and lower rail the same on each post. Cut each mortise to fit the correspondingly numbered tenon. Next, mark the mortises for the slats in the rails, allowing the whole slat to go in 1/4 in.

The handles are next in order. The pieces going into the rail should be fastened with a round [96] 1/2-in. tenon cut on one end and glued in place. The crosspiece should be mortised all the way through these pieces and held in place by a brad from the under side.

Now put the whole basket together without gluing, in order that errors, if any, may be detected.

If everything fits perfectly, the basket is ready to be glued. For best results hot glue should be used. First glue up two opposite sides with the slats in place. Clamps must be used. When these have set for at least 24 hours, the other rails and slats may be glued in place and clamped. It is a good idea to pin the tenons in place with two 1-in. brads driven from the inside.

The handles are then glued in place, using hand screws to hold them until the glue sets. The bottom should rest on thin cleats, without being nailed to them, so that it may be removed when the basket is to be emptied of small papers, etc.

Before applying the stain, see that all glue spots are removed and all surfaces sanded to perfect smoothness. If a fumed finish is not desired, any good stain may be used, after which a thin coat of shellac and two coats of wax should be applied. Allow plenty of time for drying between the coats.

HOW TO MAKE A PIANO BENCH

HOW TO MAKE A PIANO BENCH

All the material used in the making of this piano bench is 1 in. thick, excepting the two rails, which are 7/8 in. thick. The bench can be made from any of the furniture woods, but the case may demand one made from mahogany. If so, this wood can be purchased from a piano factory. The following stock list of materials may be ordered from a mill, planed and sandpapered:

    1 top, 1 by 16 by 36-1/2 in.
    2 ends, 1 by 14 by 18 in.
    1 stretcher, 1 by 4 by 31-1/2 in.
    2 side rails, 7/8 by 4 by 29-1/2 in.
    2 keys, 1 by 1 by 3-1/2 in.
    6 cleats, 1 by 1 by 4 in.

The dimensions given, with the exception of the keys and cleats, are 1/2 in. longer than necessary for squaring up the ends.

The two rails are cut slanting from a point 1-1/2 in. from each end to the center, making them only 3 in. wide in the middle. The rails are "let into" the edges of the ends so the outside of the rails and end boards will be flush. The joints are put together with glue and screws. The cleats are fastened with screws to the inside of the rails and to the top. The stretcher has a tenon cut on each end which fits into a mortise cut in each end. The tenons will have sufficient length to cut the small mortise for the key.


Piano Bench Details


The kind of wood used will determine the color of the stain for the finish. This also depends on matching other pieces of furniture.
 

Piano Bench

Excerpt from the book:
Mission Furniture - HOW TO MAKE IT - PART I
POPULAR MECHANICS HANDBOOKS CHICAGO,
Printed 1909